When I first saw Ibis at Antiqua Classics, I knew I would have to sail to England. For many years I read anything about fishing boats, smacks, oyster sailboats, troshers & fishing schooners that I could get my hands on. Something about the lines of these boats, combined with the large sail area broken into many parts and the matte finish of the hull. ( often black)excited me.
Julien and I sailed into Falmouth for the Falmouth classic regatta this June. Sarah O’Neil of St. John joined us for three days. We were floored by the amount and condition of wooden old boats here in Cornwall uk. We saw some wooden oyster work boats that still dredge oysters under sail.( the only way u can take them in the fal river)
Onto Fowey, a must see by sea village with dramatic cliffs and stunning old houses built into the cliff side. Wind in the willows was written here as well as the short story that Hitchcock turned into the movie “the birds”. A short walk from town brings you to a great beach with a water fountain and coffee bar! Onward we walked thru cow fields, over hill and dales on the southwest coastal trail.
We then headed to Polkerris , a tiny fishing town with a low tide beach. Here we enjoyed the natural beauty of rocks, cow pasture and sea. The village on land is a gem with 10 stone houses and two beach cafes with beer on tap and Italian espresso done right. We came back to this gem again on our way out to the Scilly Isles.
Charlestown was our next overnight stop. Here we found the clay port turned into a theatrical set for the three musketeers and Poldark. The floating basin, with a lock door and square rigged tall ships make it worth the trip. We had to wait for off breezes & settled weather to anchor off this port. The Shipwreck museum houses an amazing amount of artifacts from ruins along its coast. Worth the 10 quid.
The Helford & Fal river have many anchoring spots with cottage towns along its river.
St Mawes is a small town with old houses that have been converted into holiday homes.
We are waiting for weather and tide to hop over to the Scilly islands. Fortunately the weather is in our favor to spend a few days walking Penzance, mousehole and st micheals mount. Penzance being the perfect city like town for pick up of fresh veggies and charity shop ( went into at least 10) book shelves.
St micheals mount consists of a castle and Benedictine monastery with the owners St Aubyn’s still living below it. The castle is on an island linked to the mainland by an ancient drying stone causeway. I received my first attempt at dousing on the castles rooftop. Here there are energy lines that converge at the monks chapel.
Mousehole is an old fishing port with an oval harbour with mass granite boulder walls. Narrow streets, country cottages and a wild bird hospital add to its charm.
Everywhere we have had interesting conversations, great pasties, tons of fish and chips and plenty of old world sites for our senses. The pace of life here is comfortable and has contributed to us meeting real life brits who love to sail. The sailing has been great with gentle north and east winds, blue skies and 25 mile hops to the next bay. We have loved our stay in the UK and glad we missed the hectic Solent sailing area.
