Hand Made Clothes of days ago

Hand Made Clothes of Days ago. Not many people do it today. Hand spin, hand-loom, hand knit, hand weave, hand stitch and hand dye one’s own clothes. Imagine the time and patience involved. I love hand-made clothes and hand stitch some clothes when I can. But to do the whole process must be daunting. It takes me a whole winter to card and spin 15 big blobs of wool or one whole sheep fleece. I can not imagine weaving and then sewing it into a garment.

       Khadi is hand spun and woven in one’s own home. It is amazingly durable cotton that i wear spring, summer, winter and fall. Its keeps you cool and warm because of the air that is trapped into the cotton when hand spun. You can’t get this on a machine spun cotton. I love the variegation or slubs ( short cotton staples or sheep hair chunks) that is found in humble home spun textiles. My wool has plenty of them. In fact I strive for that chunky than skinny look in my wool. The khadi I am selling in my shop is hand loomed and hand spun in india. more and more kids are leaving the villages to work in the city and less and less khadi is being made. Many Khadi producers have no one to teach the skill to. 

broadfall pantsBroad fall Pants are buttoned in the front with a wide flap. They also have suspender buttons. They are comfortable and are still made by the Amish. www.gohnbrothers.comLinen coat. williamsburg va

hand made sweater sleave vestHandmade wool vest with sweater sleeves sewn in.

Hand made Hat- Williamsburg vaYour typical sleeping cap worm on a cool day in the shop.

hand made coatHand spun and loomed fabric like this is tough and durable. A true inheritable piece of clothing. Found in Colonial Williamsburg.

sticheshand stitching.

colonial pants

colonial coat

colonial jacket1800’s hand made clothes found in Shelburn Nova Scotia.

colonial jacket detail a heart appliqué on a revelotionary actor’s jacket.

mystic seaport clothingMystic Seaport attire.

hand loomed khadiAn Indian in Khadi Kurta and Dhoti.

Some one has to be wearing hand made’s in that crowd!

natural lac dye

lac dye pot

pure lac dye

natural dye colors

dye master book

natural dye wool

Natural dye samples

dyers tea room - nepal

dyers field

lac samples

green natural dyed wool

sample rugs

indian gods on weavers wall

new york show room

carinilang samples

The colors of natural dyes can not be beat. As a novice dyer of wool and cotton, I am astounded by the color combinations that the Indian and Tibetans can achieve. My brothers knowledge of color and old recipes have created his to die for collection of rugs. Sure its in the design but the craftsmanship and quality have to be there also. You will not see that in many manufactures of rugs today. His carpets truly have SOUL. visit www.carinilang.com for the real story.

varnish, brightwork
at urbanboatworks we restore and refinish all matters of wood. On land or sea.

As  owner’s of a wooden boat, Julien & I understand varnish and the stable surface that needs to exist below the varnish. We address the under lying cause of varnish failure. ( caulk seam gone bad, bad bung, leaking port lights, not enough build up) When perfection is not required, we know how to lay on for protection. Prepping and painting wooden hulls – cold molded, plank on frame or strip construction is our pleasure. We work with Awlgrip, Kirby Paints and Fine Paints of Europe. Varnish is always Epifanes.

varnish
varnishing Allegro an s class boat
varnish
brightwork on an S- Class Boat
varnish on an alden hatch
varnish on an alden hatch
door varnish
epifanes matte varnish to a west village New York Door
varnish
Paint on Hope a q class wooden boat

Late fall is always a time for me to work on my own boat. The build up on TIGER MARU was thick. It had been 8 years since the last strip. I use an  inferred heater to strip large surfaces. The build up was thick but it only took a half hour to strip the cabin sides. Next I cabinet scraper the wood back to a uniform red color. If not done properly yellow oxidized wood will remain. The scraper ( when sharp) levels the wood out to an even plane. When the sun hits the varnish the rays will bounce off. If the surface is not fair then the rays will absorb into the wood. After the scraping I check to make sure everything is fair. You can run your hand over the surface with your eyes closed. I promise you will feel divits, high and low spots. Scrape away until it feels even. Then I sand with 150-180 to make sure all marks are out. Next comes the varnish which is played on across the grain and thinned for the first 3 coats. This ensures all the pores are filled. Full strength varnish is played on and sanded back with 320 sand paper until the build up looks right. Round eyebrows and the top of coamings gets more coats and is sanded back with a 400 grit sponge.

It’s not every day that some one comes along and wants a new cockpit. The owner of this almost 100 year old S Boat ALLEGRO did.

Julien loves to builds cockpits. He says ” i have always enjoyed rebuilding cockpits. Normally I am trying to keep boats afloat. Cockpits are the fluff. You have to get it right. It needs to fit. Basically that’s were you spend all your time.”

If you are in the New York area and have a wooden boat contact us thru our website at www.urbanboatworks.com

by www.urbanboatworks.com
by http://www.urbanboatworks.com
new cockpit for s boat ALLEGRO made by www.urbanboatworks.com
new cockpit for s boat ALLEGRO made by http://www.urbanboatworks.com
made by www.urbanboatworks.com
made by http://www.urbanboatworks.com
made by www.urbanboatworks.com
made by http://www.urbanboatworks.com
cockpit created by www.urbanboatworks.com
cockpit created by http://www.urbanboatworks.com
made by www.urbanboatworks.com
made by http://www.urbanboatworks.com

STORM SANDY SALVAGED OAK BECOMES TIMBER FRAME HOME

http://https://vimeo.com/122190885

timberframe salvaged storm sandy woodWhen sandy blew thru the Hudson Valley in 2012 a few 100 year oaks parted way with the earth. Julien and I had to mill them up for timber in our new addition. We called in Johnny who worked them down the hillside with his bob cat. Then he transported them to an Amish neighbor who milled them for us. Next we mortised and tenoned the frame. In this movie you see the gable end wall going up. ( 30 feet long 18 ft high) We assembled the wall down on saw horses and then let the sill plate down to skids. We dragged the whole wall within two feet of position. Then we stood it up with a come a long from the existing bathroom ridge.

What we learned: The Amish do amazing mill work. Any person who uses the kitschy word sustainability must study the Amish.

We learned that old tree’s absorbed minerals from the earth and deposit it in there checks to prevent disease. We had gorgeous green cooper deposits in the wood.

We learned old Toyota pick up trucks make for good demolition.

We learned mortise and tenon joinery is a pleasure  in green oak.

https://vimeo.com/122190885

made from old house parts- painted out with rabbit skin glue and pigments
made from old house parts- painted out with rabbit skin glue and pigments

I am really getting into it now. My winter visit to Colonial Williamsburg has given me much inspiration. I knew it would. I have ordered some traditional hand tools from Lee Valley. A german Ax and froe for splitting small and large tree limbs. A drawknife, brace and bit with Auger, and soon a shave horse. I am not a detailed technical person. I don’t measure real well and I shoot from the gut. Not so easy when your making dovetail joints and furniture that is supposed to be square. Now that I have discovered simple hand tools and rough green wood, I am back. This kind of woodwork fits my soul. When I froe a piece of wood it really goes where its gonna go. I feel the wood is dictating the piece. I am just going with the grain, basically. Not the same with all the machine tools I have been using. There is a delight in the hand hewn doweled stools, benches and tables I have been making. There are always marks of the tools I am using and all my little petty mistakes. It’s so much easier letting them show.

Green Wood BenchThis is the kind of stuff I have been making. Simple Durable and what I call Inheritable. As it gets old it gets better!

Mortising Wood

Rustic wood stools

Williamsburg Stool

Green Wood Stool

Stool- Bench- Table

My Durable Goods NY collection can be viewed at www.etsy.com/shop/DURABLEGOODSny

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